Wulai is the place to go for good hikes with great food waiting at the end. Starting a few bus stops short of Wulai you can parallel the river, hiking against the stream, to the main street of Wulai where sausage on a stick, steamed meat buns, bamboo steamed rice, sticky rice cakes and lime juice drinks await you. It's the perfect combination!
But the real soul of Wulai is the tourqoise tinted river that winds its way through the small town. Meek in comparison to the high, green mountains that tower around it, this river offers a refreshing chill in the summer's heat and a steamy soak on its banks.
Right at the river's edge are various hot springs pools. A group of local volunteers monitors the springs. Mostly grandfathers in speedos, attending to the pipes and re-directing water flow as the temperature fluctuates.
The hottest pools may change so each visit requires a willing big toe dip in all the pools until find the one that is "just right." And just when beads of sweat form and drip down your forehead you can roll out of the pool, walk a foot or two and jump into the cool river flowing beside you. This is the best part.
The current is strong enough to carry you but not deep enough to frighten you. Dig your toes down into the pebbles on the bottom and you will start to feel the heat. You will be surprised when you burn your toe on the riverbed and a textbook image of the Earth's core orange and burning like the sun may come to mind.
It is true. So much heat above you and below you balanced so you do not die. If you kick your feet up and stretch out your arms the river will carry you down stream. The volunteers built a staircase farther down so there is no need to worry, even at night. It is best to just lean back, look up and try to find burning stars.
