Epic Fall Break Trip (Tainan, Sun Moon Lake)

Chinese Book 1 has been completed and Chinese Book 2 will be completed this Winter semester!  Most importantly that means my first week off and travel time!  Four other classmates and I headed south for a more sunny climate.  Our first stop was in Formosa's middle section at Sun Moon Lake.

Sun Moon Lake 

Beside entrance

We took the night bus from Taipei, found a reasonable hotel and,   after wandering down to the lakeside docks for a misty night walk, settled in for the night at "Lake House" owned by one of SML's nicest men. We awoke to cold and rain but what is bad weather in the face of my easy going travel companions?  Nothing.

We ventured outdoors, shuffled into the "sea of umbrellas" following the crowds to a boat that crossed to the other side of Sun Moon Lake.  We soon observed loads of tour buses dropping off travel groups, many of them Japanese.   I was starting to feel like a "prancing thoroughbred" trapped in a sheep herd  when we saw a hiking trail that led away from the crowds.  It dipped and round through a wet, lush rainforest to a peaceful temple.  White pebbled gardens and tall pines bordered the Xuan Zan Temple.  On the right side stood a bell tower and on the left a drum tower.  Inside, beautiful lotus flowers adorned Master Xuan Zang's statue.

Master Xuan Zang was a famous Buddhist priest who traveled from  China  to India in search of scriptures around 600AD.   He left on his pilgrimage at the age of 28 and returned to China with volumed of sanskrit scriptures that he translated and taught in Chinese.  He is quoted as saying, "I would rather die going West than live by staying in the East."  

Master Xuan Zhang

Pagoda

 

Next, was the Cihen Pagoda built in 1971 by Chiang Kai-shek, ruler of Taiwan, in memory of his mother.  :)  Fog was our only view but climbing up the double spiral stairway and getting a change to ring its bell and feel its vibrations was fun enough.


The second day at Sun Moon Lake was gorgeous and we were all thankful for the good weather.  It felt like a completely different place with sunshine and warmth.  The light completely changed the color of the water from a gray to a beautiful light blue.

We rented bikes and rode to the Wenwa Temple, enjoyed the view and went looking for a public swimming area.  We looked and looked but only saw signs that warned of "the dangers of water."   Taiwanese law can be unreasonable when it comes to the safety of public swimming.  Eventually, we found a semi-secluded beach and went for it.   It was wonderful and tingly.  The subsequent eye twitching and ooze was most definitely not related.  ;) 

We later rode to Wunwu Temple and climbed to the upper balcony for a stunning view

More Sun Moon Lake History: the first inhabitants of Sun Moon Lake were the Thao people.  Their legend goes that while hunting for white deer they stumbled across a serene lake.  The white deer jumped into the lake and disappeared without a trace, the Thao people decided to settle near the lake and believed it to be sacred.  Later, during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, the two small lakes (Sun and Moon) were flooded together for hydroelectric dam energy.   The Thao were forced to leave their land, burial sites and homes.  The top of their hill is still exposed as the tiny "Lalu island" but under that big, beautiful lake lay the ancient burial sites of the Thao people.   Think of the islands are mountain tops.  

The view from the top of the temple

We changed into dry clothes, ate at our favorite restaurant then got on the bus to head further south to Tainan.   Lazy Susan style table, we all share plates and ate from our own bowls of rice.  A very communal style of eating.  I love it!

Tainan

Tainan is in the South Part of the Formosa Island and was the capital of Taiwan from 1683-1885.   It is the island's oldest city and home to many ancient temples, shrines, forts and streets.  We unloaded our packs at Iris's Tower Hostel and set out for a night market.  Unfortunately, many of Tainan's night markets are only open on certain nights of the week and our quest for food turned into a wild goose chase.  We ended up at a folding table, eating duck soup with a Taiwan Beer.  

The next morning, we went to the oldest Confucius Temple in Taiwan originally built in 1665.  It has been renovated many times so we weren't sure exactly which parts were original but the feel of the grounds was clean, open, room to think, mediate, meander through the courtyards under arched gates and around terra cotta red walls.  

We visited some old forts, another temple, another temple, another fort, and the Temple of the Five Concubines who preempted the suicide of their lover by hanging themselves before he took his own life.  All due to the imminent fall of the Ming dynasty.  We decided to fittingly dedicate this photo to Tom, his manliness and leadership during our trip.  

In front of the Temple of the Five Concubines

Above are photos from inside one of the oldest Buddhist temples.  This one was off the beaten path, less touristy and felt more like someone's living space.  There stumbled upon monks sitting around a table, empty breakfast bowls, vegetable gardens, a rack left leaning against a tree, a cat roaming around and most of all quietness.

To the left, is the Koxinga Shrine for the Sea pirate that took control of Taiwan from the Dutch.  Below is another old Confucious/Taoist temple, a lot of ornamentation, animals on the roof tiles and not as quiet as its Buddhist counterpart.  Most of the temples were designed in rectangular patterns with the most respected god shrine in the center.  There is a front courtyard and the front entrance is usually guarded by a pair of stone lions or dragons.  The front entrance usually has a "curb" or block of wood that must be stepped over in order to enter.  This "curb" is to block out ghosts and other evil influences.

We meandered through some old streets, drank bubble tea, tried the famous oyster omelet and went out for some dinner.  The next morning, I caught the High Speed Rail back to Taipei so I could make it back to teach my 1:00 pm class.  What would have been a 6 hour train/bus ride was only 2 hours and 45 minutes on the High Speed Rail.  Definitely worth the extra money!

My next opportunity to travel will be over the New Year.  31 more days...

Enjoy the journey!
"It is better to travel well than to arrive."